Valdeorras which sits in a remote part of northwestern Spain is sometimes known as 'the gateway to Galicia', but more importantly is the natural home of Godello. The variety has once all but disappeared from around here, but is thankfully now back because it makes delicious wines in this terrain and this example by Rafael Palacios is one of the benchmarks against which many others are judged. A top example of Godello, it's a medium-bodied and very stylish wine with intense aromas of citrus fruits, wild mountain flowers, hints of fennel and flinty nuances. On the palate, it's very fruit-forward and supported by a taut, saline minerality and a textural complexity.